Welcome to Korea and the Joong Ang Foreign Language Institute. This handbook is the collected wisdom of Roger and the rest of the teachers working at JAFLI between 1995 and 1997. The goal of this handbook is to help you, the new teacher, "learn the ropes" quickly and easily. Korea is a different place than the US, and dealing with even basic issues such as finding food and transportation can be a challenge.
If you read this before you come to Korea, this can give you a flavor of what life at JAFLI is like. These are issues we've experienced, and found needed explaining. This handbook is far from complete. There's a lot that isn't covered, and there's still a lot we are all learning while in Korea. But it's a first step at putting some of the things we've learned already down on paper.
Have fun during your stay,
Roger, Cindy, Dennis, Matt, Tim, Scott, Dave, Bobby, Sonya
JAFLI is a specialty school (hagwan) for teaching foreign language. There are two locations, one in the heart of Suwon (Namoon), and the other in a booming neighborhood to the south (Kwonsundong). Your life in Korea will center around classes taught for JAFLI at one of the hagwans, and at on-site classes taught at industrial and government training centers in the Suwon area.
In between classes, you can spend time doing the various day-to-day and weekend activities that a long term stay in Korea offers. These are things such as shopping, sightseeing, recreating, meeting with students and other Koreans and meeting with other foreigners.
Your apartment will be in Maetan dong, a neighborhood in southeast Suwon, and you will travel from class to your apartment by either bus or taxi.
Classes are usually taught five days a week (once in a while there may be a Saturday morning class), so the weekends are yours to spend as you see fit.
Transportation 3
Entertainment & Shopping 6
Classes 9
The beginning 11
Settling in and ending 12
Sightseeing 14
Holidays 15
Money matters 16
Medical 17
Who ya gonna Call? 20
One key to enjoying Korea is learning how to get around. There are many ways to travel in Korea: bus, taxi, train, car and plane. Most of the signage in Korea is written in English and Hangul (the Korean alphabet) so navigating can become easy even if you don't know Korean.
In your first months, your students can help you with some transportation needs, and will often offer to do so. The help can be as simple as providing directions, or as elaborate as offering to escort you to the destination.
Here are some further tips on traveling in Suwon, Seoul and the rest of Korea.
Navigating Suwon
Bus and taxi
Walking, bus and taxi are the three most common ways to travel around Suwon. The buses are inexpensive and service is good. There are many buses running between Namoon and Maetan dong. Buses come every five to twenty minutes from 5:00AM to 11:00PM. Things to watch out for are the "sports car" driving styles of some drivers and the rush hour crushes of students.
There are two kinds of local buses, the two digit buses and the three digit buses--for example, the 66 and the 660. Both follow the same route, but the three digit bus is air conditioned, a sit-down bus, and it costs more.
Taxi service is also good throughout Suwon, and there are taxi stands near the schools and the apartments. Few drivers speak English, but many can read English, so have your destination written down in either Hangul or English. A ride between Namoon and Mae tandong costs between 2,500 and 3,000 won. Pay what's on the meter, or, if it's a long trip, what you've agreed to as a price. There's no need to tip.
"Piggy back" riders are common in Suwon. The taxi driver will pick up additional passengers going to a destination near the primary passenger's. The taxi driver will slow down, and the prospective passenger will shout his or her destination. The piggy backs pay 1,000 won. Recently there have been some newspaper articles talking about problems caused by piggy back riders, so Koreans are now aware of the problem. If you don't want piggy back riders, especially if you're a woman, tell the driver.
Like many areas of the world, taxis fill up on rainy nights.
Maetan dong
The teachers' apartments are in the Maetan dong neighborhood, behind the Im Gwang apartments-- which are well known. If you tell the taxi driver "Mae tan dong, Im Gwang, whomoon." he'll take you to the back gate (whomoon) of the apartments.
Take the 82 bus from Namoon to get to Maetan dong.
Namoon
Namoon (South gate) is Suwon's downtown. JAFLI sits next to the Joong Ang (central) movie theater. Namoon is well known, and "Namoon, Joong Ang, coke jung." (Joong Ang cinema) will put you on the JAFLI side of the square.
Take the 83 or 83-1 bus from Maetan dong to get to Namoon.
New core, Dong Suwon Nu Core, Galleria, Kim's Club
New Core and Dong Suwon New Core (formerly Highway) are two well known department stores, and local landmarks. New core is a quarter mile south of Namoon, Highway is a half mile northwest of teacher housing. You pass by both when you take an 83 or 82 bus, the 83-1 buses will take you by New core, but not Highway. Galleria and Kim's Club are brand new department stores near City Hall--south of Highway and about a mile due east of teacher housing.
Suwon Station and Bus Station
Suwon train station is on the north east side of Suwon. Many buses go between Namoon and Suwon station. Many buses also go between Mae tan dong and Suwon station, including the 82's, 83's and 92's. Simply ask the driver, "Suwon station?" or "Suwon yok?", he will hand sign you yes or no.
Suwon's intercity bus station is three blocks to the northeast of Suwon station, but it's a little hard to find because the streets between the two are a maze of marketing streets, not a main road. The bus station has two sides, and buses for a specific destination depart from one side or the other, not both. Ask at the counter for your destination, the clerk will either sell you a ticket, or try to tell you it departs from the other side.
Further down the road on the far side from the train station is the small express bus terminal. This is a little hard to find. Use it for buses to distant parts of Korea such as Kwangju or Pusan.
Dong Suwon
Dong Suwon (East Suwon) has Suwon's best hotels and two universities, so it's an entertainment center.
Getting to Seoul
Seoul is the big city of Korea. It's a world-class big city with about 15,000,000 people. There's a lot to it, and there are several ways to get there from Suwon.
Subway
The simplest and cheapest way between Suwon and Seoul is the subway. The subway departs from Suwon station about every ten minutes from 6AM to 10PM.
It takes time to get to Seoul. Allow four hours for a round trip from Maetan dong to Young san station on Seoul's south side.
New subway lines have opened up that connect Suwon with Seoul's southwest side, and there are now several transfer points along the Suwon line to pick up subways to different parts of Seoul.
When returning to Suwon, be sure to get on a Suwon-bound subway. The line that services Suwon also services Ansan and Inchon cities.
Bus
There are direct buses from the central bus station to Seoul's express bus stations scattered throughout the city.
The fastest way to Seoul's south side is a bus that departs from Namoon every ten to twenty minutes and goes to Kangnam station on Seoul's south side. This bus also stops at Pukmoon.
If your adventurous you can get a bus from Pukmoon (North gate) to Uhiwong or Kwachon, and transfer there to a Seoul-bound bus.
Getting from Seoul
Korea's transportation net is Seoul-centric. It's easy to get anywhere in Korea from Seoul, and it's easy to get to Seoul from anywhere. But Korea's passenger transportation shuts down at about 10PM, so if you day trip, you may often find that you can get to Seoul, but you'll be arriving in Seoul at 10:30 or 11:00PM. The challenge then becomes to find a way back to Suwon.
Late night to Suwon
The simplest after hours way from Seoul to Suwon is a taxi. The cost will be 35-45,000 won. The alternative is a late night train from Seoul station. (You can also stay at a yogwan in Seoul for about 35-45,000 won, and take normal transportation the next morning.)
Getting to Song Tan
Buses run between Suwon and Song Tan. Direct buses run from the central bus station. You can also get a bus to Osan from the Maetan dong area, then transfer for Song Tan. Buses stop running about 9:30PM. After that you can take a taxi for about 30,000 won.
Traveling around Korea
The transportation network is Seoul-centric, so you may find yourself traveling to Seoul to transfer. Trains, buses and planes criss cross Korea, each method has it's advantages.
Train riding is pleasant, reliable and economy class is inexpensive, but seats go fast. If you plan on using the train, make reservations ahead of time. If you plan on using a train during a holiday, plan way ahead.
If you're going to use the train a lot, you may wish to get a "train club" membership for 20,000 won. This will allow you to make reservations further in advance than regular passengers.
There are three classes of trains in Korea: Saemaul--the fast express, Mugungwa--the air conditioned regular express, and Tongil--the non-air conditioned local. Saemaul tickets are expensive, so these are often available when regular seats are sold out.
You buy a ticket for a seat, or, if the seats are sold out, for standing in the aisles. But even standing space runs out, so you can't count on train space being available at all. If you can't buy your train ticket ahead of time, always plan on an alternate, such as the bus.
Buses are the flexible alternative to trains. Intercity buses are air conditioned, inexpensive, and they run everywhere. But they are subject to the same traffic jams that afflict all users of Korea's highways.
Holiday traveling
Koreans work hard and play hard, and they all do the same thing at the same time. Holiday travel in Korea jams up the system much worse than in the US. Plan on massive lines and massive traffic jams during holidays.
Going International (Getting to Kimpo Airport)
Plane travel in Korea would be a lot more convenient if Kimpo airport where easier to reach. Getting to and from Kimpo will be one of your more challenging travel tasks in Korea.
Ways to Kimpo
The simplest and most expensive way to Kimpo is by cab, about 50,000 won. The trip takes an hour and a half to two hours from Namoon.
Last year the subway line to the airport opened up, so you can now take the purple line to Kimpo. This has been a god-send for simplicity.
This year an airport limonsine service began between Dong Suwon Hotel and Kimpo. This is a good choice if you're traveling with baggage.
Getting back from Kimpo is the reverse of getting to Kimpo.
If you're at Kimpo on Saturday evening, you'll witness an interesting phenomenon, there will be a steady stream of wedding cars moving through the departure area. These are Korea's newly weds heading for honeymoons, most Koreans get married on Saturday, and many fly away to Chedju island (Chedju do) for their honeymoon.
Asking Directions (Roger's story)
If you're patient, you can get anywhere. Late in my first year's stay I decided to visit the War Museum in Seoul. I knew it was near Young san, but no more than that. I got off the subway at Young san and hailed a taxi.
"Take me to the War Museum, please." I said. He didn't understand English, and after politely indicating so, he drove off.
"The second taxi driver couldn't understand English, either, but instead of driving off, he hailed a passerby. The passerby couldn't understand English, either, but he waved down a friend of his in a truck. The truck driver couldn't understand spoken English, but when I wrote down War Museum, he understood, and the message was relayed back to the taxi driver. Everyone smiled, and I was on my way."
Entertainment and Shopping
There are many places to go for shopping and entertainment. Each teacher will come up with his or her own mix of favorite places. Here's a starting list
Shopping in Suwon
Suwon has many kinds of shops, and they are found in many places. There are the traditional neighborhood shops and open air markets, and there are modern department stores. Little English is spoken by retailers in Suwon, so expect to deal in Hangul and sign language.
You can bargain in the Suwon markets, but you don't have to. The retailers will usually quote you a fair price the first time.
There are many specialty stores on the streets near the apartments. There are also good grocery stores located in the apartment buildings that flank teacher housing. The convenience stores on the streets will stay open until about 10:30PM.
Namoon market
Namoon market is located near JAFLI just east of Namoon square. The market doesn't look large at first glance, but it extends for many blocks north and south of Namoon. The center is a food market. As you move north or south, the character changes into clothing, furniture and dozens of other varieties of goods.
This is also a place to find itinerant merchants selling the odd-ball items of Korea, such as centipede elixer--that's being brewed on the spot!
New core, Dong Suwon New Core, Galleria, Kim's Club department stores
The department stores are multi-story affairs that carry a wide range of goods (including grocery store food in the basement) and some entertainment facilities. Galleria has a bowling alley, and New core has a health club. The department stores carry more expensive lines than are found in the markets, and more specialty items, such as musical instruments.
Shopping in Seoul
Seoul is a big place filled with shopping. You can shop anywhere, but here are a few places that cater to foreign shoppers.
Itewan
Itewan is Seoul's foreign quarter. The hotels cater to foreigners and the merchants are used to dealing with foreigners. Probably for the same reason that Tiajuana is filled with aggressive Mexican merchants, the merchants in Itewan are much more aggressive than those in the rest of Korea. Itewan is a good place to get Korean souvenirs and an "English fix."--a place to find other people who speak English as a native tongue.
Itewan is a little tougher to get to than most Seoul neighborhoods because it isn't near the subway. The easiest way is to take a taxi from Young san or Seoul station subway stations. It's a long walk from Young san subway station, a shorter walk from Namyong station, and there is a bus that runs from Seoul station, but it's a little hard to identify. (Namyong station is also the place to get off for the USO.)
Namdemoon and Dongdemoon
Namdemoon and Dongdemoon are the south and east "great" gates. Namdemoon is a short walk from Seoul station, and is in the heart of Seoul. Dongdemoon has it's own subway stop and is another retailing center. It's a good place for sporting goods.
Lotteworld and hotels
The major hotels are good eating and shopping areas. Lotteworld entertainment complex has shopping, ice skating, a mini folk village, movies and an indoor amusement park. Watch the Lotteworld all-girl marching band perform on the skating rink between sessions.
Young san Electronic World
The Young san neighborhood is a big American military area. It's also the home for Young san electronic world--where you'll find some of Korea's lowest prices on electronic goods of all sorts. Shop here for computer, audio, video and photo equipment. Electronic world is connected to the Young san subway station by a long arcade.
Young Poong and Kyobo Bookstores
Downtown Seoul, the Chongno subway stop, puts you near several book stores with extensive English language selections. Kyobo Book store is the more famous of the two, it's the biggest book store in Korea, but the prices are high, and at times they employ an artificially high exchange rate to inflate the prices of dollar-denominated books even more. Young Poong, adjoining the Chongno subway stop, offers a wide selection without pricing tricks.
Shopping in Song tan
Song tan services the American service people stationed at Osan Air Base. This is a good place for American-size clothing and American junk food. If you need Fig Newtons or a salsa fix, check the markets at Song tan. Song tan also has an extensive collection of serviceman-related souvenirs, and it's a good place to buy custom-tailored suits, leather jackets and shirts.
Magazine subscriptions
Universal Publications Agency, Seoul (voice:02-3672-0044, fax 02-3672-1222) is the place to start your search for magazine subscriptions. They are agents for a wide range of western magazines ranging from the Asian Wall Street Journal through Scientific American to Vogue.
Entertainment in Suwon
Suwon is a city of almost a million people. There's lots of entertainment. There are museums, coffee shops, noribans (singing rooms), tea rooms, movies, and night clubs of several varieties. Your students can help you get started finding your way around Suwon entertainment.
Namoon: There are half a dozen movie theaters starting from Joong Ang and heading south along the road that borders Paldal Mountain (Paldalsan) just west of Namoon. This is also an area rich with coffee shops, night clubs and noribans.
Suwon Station: There is another entertainment center clustered near Suwon station.
Dong Suwon New Core-Cultural Center: Suwon's restaurant center starts at the Dong Suwon New Core department store and spreads southeast towards the Cultural Center. Here you can find all kinds of restaurants: American, Chinese and French. Try out a deji galbi (pork short ribs) restaurant, they're a specialty of the area, or a Korean food buffet.
Dong Suwon: There are hotels, bars and smorgasbords in the Dong Suwon area.
Health Clubs in Suwon (James' tips)
"Choi's Body Building Club is just behind the Cho-hung Bank. It has the best free weights in town. Serious body builders hang out there. Cost: 50,000 won/mo. Open 7:30AM - 10:00PM Mon-Sat.
"New Core's sports club is modern and modestly well equipped with free weights and universal weight equipment. It has a sauna and a swimming pool. Cost 4,500 won/day or 50,000 won per month.
"There's a public bath near Namoon that has good wet room facilities, dry sauna, steam room, hot tub, super hot tub, cold plunge, and a small weight set. Cost: 2,200 won/day."
There are many ways to keep fit in Suwon. Koreans enjoy tennis, ping pong, badminton, and jogging among many other sports. Taekwondo is the national sport. Hiking is easy to do everywhere in Korea, and golf is also popular, but it's "the sport of kings."
There is an annual marathon in Seoul.
Entertainment in Seoul
Seoul is a city of 15,000,000 people--one quarter of Korea's population. There's always something happening in Seoul.
Itewan: Itewan is lively during the day as a retail center, and at night as an entertainment center for people of many nationalities.
Hotels: The big hotels offer upscale night time entertainment. This is also where you can find lavish casinos.
Entertainment in Song tan
Song tan caters to service people. There are large and small night clubs and beer joints, most with a low budget, "down home" feel. You can find disco-rap, rock, and country-western themes. There's even a Harley Davidson Bikers Bar. This is another "border town" area where things are happening that don't happen in the rest of Korea.
JAFLI teaches many kinds of classes. These classes are designed to service the many different kinds of Koreans who are working to better themselves through learning English. Learning English has been mandated as an important activity by the Korean government, so there's a booming interest in learning English.
Your class load will consist mostly of two kinds of classes: hagwan classes during the morning and evening, and on-site classes during mid-day. The number of classes you teach will be determined by demand for classes and your desire to teach.
Director Kim advertises for hagwan students and hustles on-site contracts. He uses your resume and the reputation you develop in the Suwon area as a teacher to promote you for on-site work.
There are peaks and valleys in the demand for English training. Each month will bring a new schedule.
Hagwan classes
Institute (Hagwan) classes start early in the morning (6:30-6:40AM) for people who want to study English before they go to work. Morning classes run until about 10AM. Evening classes run from 5-6PM to 9PM. The classes are usually 60 minutes long.
During school vacations, there will also be classes during the day.
On-site classes
On-site classes are taught mid-day at locations in and around Suwon. The organization of these classes varies widely. You can lecture forty students for half a day; you can manage a ten student breakout session for one or two hours, you can be called on to test the English proficiency of students who've been attending another course.
Transportation is provided for you to and from these classes. It's usually a car and driver, a minibus or a taxi.
These courses are contracted for a fixed number of teaching hours, and they may not fit the standard monthly teaching schedule that hagwan courses do.
Teaching Style
Each teacher brings his or her own style of teaching to JAFLI. There are standard texts for the classes, but how you use those texts as a basis for teaching English is up to you. Some teachers emphasize analyzing structure, some emphasize free conversation, some emphasize group activities. As you get acquainted with Korean students, you'll develop your own ways of bringing English alive in the classroom.
Speak slowly
Whatever your style, speak slowly. For most of your students the basic processing of sounds into English words takes up lots and lots of brain power. If you aren't being understood, speak slower. Slow speaking is a style you'll develop naturally after a few weeks here.
The Monthly Cycle
Each month brings a new schedule. Classes start, classes end. Teachers come, teachers go. Students come, students go.
Director Kim and the staff work to juggle your schedule so that you can get the most teaching with the minimum wasted time, so there's often a lot of last minute juggling. Be prepared for lots of schedule changes during the first week of the month, and if you have strong preferences about your schedule, make sure you let the staff know.
Relations with students
Teachers throughout Asia command a lot of respect. This is true in Korea as well. Your students have been trained all their life to treat their teachers with respect. If you're older, male, patient and polite, you will find you fit into this scheme of things easily, and your older students will offer you respect to start with. You'll just have to be a good teacher to keep it.
If you're younger, female, impatient or dealing with younger students, you'll have to earn your respect the old fashioned way.
Your students are a valuable resource. They're in class to learn English, but they're also curious, and they will want to help you discover the good side of Korea.
It's common for students to invite new teachers to see some of the nearby sights. If you haven't been there yet, have one of your classes take you to the Korean Folk Village in Young in. This is a good place to start getting a feel for Korea's history.
Koreans are punctual, and they are patient. When you make an appointment, show up on time--and be sure to show up--Koreans will often wait an hour or longer for you. A common meeting place is Joong Ang Plaza, the plaza in front of JAFLI and the Joong Ang movie theater.
Your students may also invite you to a coffee shop or tea room. A coffee shop is Korea's equivalent of the American living room--few Koreans entertain at home. The tea room is the traditional form of the coffee shop.
Noribans are Korea's singing rooms. This is another popular place to invite teachers. The noribans will have English as well as Korean songs. Koreans love to sing, and they love to hear native English interpretations of English songs. If you've got any sort of voice, give them a try.
Relations with staff
The staff at JAFLI are your main contact with getting things done in Korean. They will help you get from class to class, and they can help you with utility, landlord and bank dealings.
Koreans are not great information researchers, and the JAFLI staff is no exception. The staff will help you quickly and efficiently with things they know, but if you ask for something new, it may be "over the edge" into terra incognita, and it will take a lot of work on your part to help the staff find the information it needs to get the task accomplished. Be patient, and be prepared to offer advice as to how to find something out.
End of class and end of class breaks
Class endings are a celebrating time. It's common to have a class party of some sort the last day of class, and it's common for the students to present the teachers with a small gift at that time.
Hagwan classes are contracted to run exactly 40 days in a two month period. There are usually one or two working days at the end of the second month that are extra. If you work your schedule right, this can be a good time to fit in a non-holiday trip.
Coming to Korea
The trip from the US West Coast takes about 12 hours. You'll start about noon, but the sun won't set until you're about to land--you'll fly into Kimpo airport in the early evening. There you will be greeted by a JAFLI staff member and escorted back to Suwon. You'll be spending two to three hours in some typical Korean heavy traffic.
You'll spend the first night or two in a hotel, then move into your apartment.
Teaching will begin within a day or two of your arrival. You may sit in on classes for a day or two, but it won't be long before you're on your own.
What to bring
The experienced traveling axiom to "travel light" applies even to a long stay such as this, but here are some things to consider:
Korea is a clothing, shoe and sporting goods exporter. Bring enough to be comfortable for the season, you can buy more when you get here. Weather in Korea is much like US East Coast or mid-west weather.
Books are expensive here, and the English language selection is limited. On the other hand, books are heavy--which makes them expensive to ship. If you've got some favorite videos--especially older, obscure releases--bring those. Video shops are plentiful in Korea, but the selection is limited, and mostly just current releases.
Korea is a "family values" nation. Pornography will cause problems.
What you'll buy here to get started
You'll be provided with a "yo" (a Korean mattress/bed) and a pillow. The cost will come out of your pay check. You'll probably want a desk, chair and a clothing rack. You may want a western-style bed--these are available and many Koreans are using them.
Some of these things you may be able to get from outgoing teachers. Others you'll have to purchase retail. Your students or JAFLI staff can help you.
Curiously, electronic appliances such as computers and microwaves are somewhat expensive here.
Korea now runs on 220V, but a few years ago 110v was used in parts of Korea. As a result, 220-110 converters are readily available from hardware stores for 15-20,000 won. These converters are hefty lunch box size appliances. The little plug-on-the-wall stuff you find in the US is light-duty stuff for shavers.
Getting the work permit
Some time within ninety days of getting in country, you'll have to get your work permit. This involves a trip to Seoul to get finger printed.
When you first arrive in Korea, you'll likely stay in a hotel in Dong Suwon for a few days while leaving teachers clear out of an apartment. Then you'll move in. That will be your home for the duration of your stay, unless it's necessary to do some apartment shuffling to better match roommates.
Groceries and sundries
There are many grocery stores and convenience stores within walking distance of the apartments. There are bakeries, dry cleaners, video stores and several other specialty stores in the apartment neighborhood.
Places to eat and drink
Food is plentiful and easy to find in Korea. There are street vendors selling fresh fruits and small baked goods. There are convenience stores and grocery stores, and there are restaurants everywhere. Beer and soju (Korean gin) are available at most restaurants. There are also bars and coffee shops, which are major centers for meeting and conversations.
In the apartment neighborhood there are many small, low key restaurants. There are pizza places, and chicken places.
Nearby, between the Cultural Center and the Dong Suwon New Core department store, is a neighborhood of upscale restaurants. There are a couple Korean buffets, a Coco's (California style), deji galbi (a tasty Korean dish: short ribs roasted at the table and served on lettuce), French and several other styles of restaurants.
The Namoon area has an extensive mix of restaurants. There are several American-style fast food, Chinese, Korean and a Japanese restaurant in Namoon market that serves a nice sashimi.
The underground arcade outside Suwon station features several kim pop shops. Kim pop is rice rolled in seaweed, a Korean California roll.
Furniture
You'll need furniture. You may be able to pick up some pieces from departing teachers, but plan on buying a few pieces, such as clothes racks, tables and chairs and bookshelves.
Utilities and telephone
Starting up utilities is taken care of by the JAFLI staff. Each month you'll pay for electricity, water, gas and, if you have it, a television fee.
If you want a phone, you'll have to ask, and pay a large deposit. There has been a lot of phone abuse in the past, so phone is now an option that a teacher must pay for.
If you get a phone, keep a sharp eye on your phone use. Calling the US is expensive, and many teachers have gotten into a vicious circle where they get unhappy, make long calls to the US to talk about their problems, then get socked with a huge phone bill, which makes them even unhappier.
Hint: try using E-mail instead of voice. It will dramatically reduce your phone bills.
Public telephones use coins or phone cards. The phone cards are much easier to manage. They come in 1,000 to 10,000W denominations. Get them at the same kiosks that sell bus tickets.
Garbage
Garbage in Suwon is now separated into plastic, metal and biodegradables. The biodegradables are put in a special garbage bag purchased from the grocery store. Bottles are reusable, there will be a place to deposit them near your apartment.
Landlords
The landlords rarely speak English. Tell the staff at JAFLI about the problem, and they will work with the landlord to get it taken care of.
Sending things: Mail, E-mail, Packages
Shipping to the US isn't one of Korea's great bargains. The most common way to send letters and packages of all sizes is postal air mail. This takes about ten days, and it's expensive. You can also send things surface, but the Pacific's a big ocean--plan on a couple months of transit time. Also, count on your surface mail packages getting treated roughly--very roughly.
There is a 20KG weight limit on postal packages, and they should be cardboard boxes. Put suitcases, bags and other such in boxes before you ship them.
You will have to put a customs declaration on the contents of a package when you ship overseas. Customs looks at these tags to determine if a box contains declareable goods that need duty paid. General descriptions such as "documents", "clothing" or "personal goods" seem to work just fine.
Picture postcards are hard to find in Suwon. The easiest place is the Post Office, but they're not on display so you have to ask for them, and only one or two pictures are available at a time.
Proforma monthly budget
Everyone who stays in Korea has different expenses, but here's a representative budget to give you a starting point. These costs are in Won.
Food (lunch at a restaurant, dinner in) 200,000W
Bus/taxi (mostly bus) 50,000W
Laundry, soaps, dry cleaning, etc. 30,000W
Mail, E-mail, fax 25,000W
Housing 0W
Utilities 50,000W
Phone ???
Books, hobbies, recreation ???
Entertainment, travel ???
As a rule of thumb use 800 won to the dollar. This means a 10,000 won bill, the largest you commonly see, is a $12.50 bill.
Sooner than you think your contracted time in Korea will come to an end. It's time to prepare for going home.
At eight or nine months into the contract, Mr. Kim will ask you about extending your stay.
Shipping things home, selling things
You can sell your goods as you leave, or ship them home. A likely buyer for furniture is a teacher coming in to replace you. There are classified ad-only newspapers in Korea similar to those in the US. Your students can help you place an ad.
The most convenient shipper is the Korean Postal Service. They will handle up to 20KG boxes (there is also a size limit). You can send things back Airmail or Surface. Surface is a long, very rough, very humid, trip--pack things well.
There's no such thing as a free ride back to Kimpo
It seems a little inhospitable, but in JAFLI eyes your contract in Korea ends at the JAFLI front door. Mr. Kim and the staff will wave you good bye there. You need to make your own arrangements back to Kimpo airport. A cab will cost about 50,000 won. (See ways to Kimpo for alternatives)
Taking money out of Korea
There are restrictions on taking currency out of Korea. If you plan on taking more than $5000 through customs at Kimpo, check on what paperwork you need to fill out first.
There's a lot to see in Korea. Buy a good map and a good guide book before you come. These are key items in enjoying a year's worth of sightseeing. If you're a diligent sightseer, you'll have visited more of Korea than most Koreans after just a few months of traveling. You'll need a guide book to help uncover interesting new places to see.
Places to see
Korean sightseeing divides naturally into two parts: Seoul, and the rest of Korea.
Suwon is an ideal base for sight seeing, because it's easy to reach both. If you can sleep or read on a bus so you don't get bored to tears, you can day trip as far east as Sorak mountain (Soraksan) on the east coast, as far south as Taejun in central Korea, and as far north as Panmunjom and Chunchon north of Seoul. There's lots of places to visit on weekends.
Your sightseeing "best buys" are temples and buses. Bus rides cost between 1,000 and 10,000 won, and temples cost 200 to 2,000 won admission. At the temple you can see brightly painted historical buildings, Buddha's galore, and climb a forest-covered mountain following paths that wind along beautiful clear streams. A temple trip means exercise and few hours enjoying the outdoors.
Sightseeing on the cheap (Roger's tips)
"If you've got 20,000 won in your pocket, there are dozens and dozens of places you can visit in Korea. The key to sightseeing on the cheap is day tripping using the subway or the bus system--taxis and hotel rooms are death on low budget traveling.
"The bus is your best travel bargain in Korea. It's a way to beat the heat during the summer and you can go a surprising distance in a morning or an evening. I found I could day trip as far as Sorak in the east, Chunchon to the north and Taejun to the south.
"Saturday is a good travel day because if you have a transportation problem, you have all Sunday to recover from it. Plan to start early Saturday morning, be at the central bus station by 7AM or so. This will get you out on the first buses, and you'll get to your destination ahead of Korea's weekend crush. Have the JAFLI staff write down your destination in Hangul as a backup.
"The Suwon central bus station has two sides. This two sided arrangement in common to many express bus stations in Korea. Your bus will depart from one side or the other. Ask at either side, and they'll either sell you a ticket or motion you to the other side.
"Plan on being patient. The bus you want may not depart for an hour or more. I've found the Koreans to be quite helpful, but if you don't understand Korean numbers, they have a hard time communicating departure times or waiting times.
"If you stay over night, stay in a yogwan rather than a hotel. A yogwan for 20,000 won will get you a small, simple room, a private bath, and a Korean bed. A hotel room will cost about 50,000 won.
"I travel alone most of the time. Koreans are fascinated at seeing a Westerner traveling solo in off-the-beaten-path places, and if I stand still for a few minutes, one will often strike up a conversation with me. In addition to providing company, this also cuts down on my food bill, because if the conversation lasts more than about 10 minutes, I'm usually invited to a meal."
Arranging a vacation
When you're ready for a longer trip, the first thing you need to do is check your schedule. You can fight holiday Korean traffic by traveling on a Korean holiday, or you can take advantage of the end-of-class gap that comes at the end of the second month of classes.
The Koreans, even the JAFLI Koreans, aren't used to the American custom of taking vacations at odd times. If you want something longer, or not on a gap or holiday, be sure you make that clear to the staff at least sixty days in advance, and be aware that it may cost you an on-site contract.
Holidays and special events
Koreans use both the Western (solar-based) calendar and the traditional Chinese (lunar-based) calendar. Some holidays are solar and happen the same day (solar) every year. Others, such as birthdays, are based on the lunar calendar. (Easter is an example of a western lunar-based holiday). Each year the lunar-based holidays will change their location on the solar calendar.
Korean holidays celebrated by JAFLI
1 Jan New years day (solar)
1 Jan (lunar) Korean New Year (3 days)
1 Mar The March 1919 movement day
5 Apr Arbor day
8 Apr (lunar) Buddha's Birthday
5 May Children's day
6 Jun Memorial day
7 Jul Law day (western legal system)
15 Aug Independence Day (Japan 1945)
15 Aug (lunar) Chu-sook (Harvest Day) (3 days)
3 Oct Dan gun (mythical founder)
25 Dec Christmas
Thinking in Won
As a rule of thumb, think of 800 won to the dollar.
This means a 10,000 won bill, the largest you commonly see, is a $12.50 bill,
a 5,000 won bill is a $6.25 bill,
and a 1,000 won bill is a $1.25 bill.
Setting up a bank account
When you get your first pay, you'll be set up with a bank account. This will be at the Cho hung Bank where JAFLI does business. You can use the ATMs here and send money to the US from there. You'll get a bank book, an ATM card, and a signature stick. Korean tradition is that the signature stick, not your signature, is your legal sign. These days, either will be accepted in most circumstances, but the bank likes to use the stick.
Your money in the bank (direct deposit and the ATM)
JAFLI will deposit your money directly in your bank account. The easiest way to get it out is at an ATM. The ATMs work just like US ATMs, but the writing is in Hangul. Until you master Hangul, you'll have to get used to poking buttons without knowing exactly what they mean.
Sending money home monthly
You can have the bank send money home for you. If you're a heavy saver, it's a good idea to send money monthly because there are restrictions on how much money you can send out at one time, and there's a restriction--$5,000 currently--on how much money you can take out when you leave the country. Take out more, and you start filling out a lot of paperwork.
Paying utilities
Once a month you'll get a couple bills for utilities. The JAFLI staff can help you get these sorted out. You pay utilities at the bank. Deal with these promptly, there is usually only a few days between the day you see them and the day the payment is due, and Korean utilities seem to have a hard time with the concept of carrying forward a balance.
Korean medicine is in transition. Traditional Chinese-based and modern western-based medical systems are both practiced in Korea. Within the western side, the lines of responsibility run a little differently than they do in the US. For instance, pharmacists are also prescribers in Korea, so for minor aliments you can often get what you need simply by telling your symptoms to the druggist.
Korea has a full range of medical services, and in theory Korean doctors know English. In practice the system is a little difficult for teachers to access because the doctors' command of English is weaker than their reputation, and they're reluctant to expose this.
Drugs and vitamins
Western-style vitamins are hard to find, but there are plenty of Korean health elixirs available to take their place. Also, the druggists have a powerful pharmacopoeia that they have authority to access, so you don't need a doctor's prescription to get something strong.
Clinics and hospitals
There are several kinds of clinics in Korea, but we teachers have had little experience with them. Some recommendations are:
Dr. Kim's International Clinic in Itewan, just past the Hamilton hotel. The clinic seems clean, and Dr. Kim speaks good English.
Dr. Shim's Gastrointestinal Clinic across the street from St. Vincent's hospital.
St. Vincent's hospital is big and nearby, but it's a crowded and grim place. The clinics are more comfortable.
Insurance
Medical insurance for foreign workers is an uncertain thing here in Korea. In theory it's available, but in practice it's hard to locate. If insurance is important to you, arrange for coverage while you're in the US, then see if you can locate better coverage after you arrive.
Note: Director Kim and the Korean government are working on this medical insurance situation in hopes of providing insurance and medical care that are more compatible with western expecations. There are changes afoot, and by the time you read this, some of those changes may have been implemented.
Learning Korean OTJ
Many teachers come wishing to learn more Korean language. This is a case of "coals to Newcastle." JAFLI doesn't offer Korean, so you'll have to make arrangements outside JAFLI.
The best formal courses are offered in Seoul at Yeongsea University. But because of your variable schedule as a teacher, you may find these difficult to attend.
You can also find students who are willing to teach you. There are a few Korean language text books available at Young Poong and Kyobo book stores, but you may want to check some university book stores in the US for a good text book and tape system before you come.
Keep in mind that learning Korean history and Korean culture is a different activity from learning Korean language. You'll usually find you don't have time to learn both at the same time, but taking the time to do either is very rewarding--and learning either will earn you lots of respect with the Koreans you meet.
Learning Hangul (the Korean alphabet)
The Korean alphabet (Hangul) looks like hen scratches at first, but it's easy to learn. The alphabet is a modern one, developed in the 1400's, and it's an accurate phonetic representation of Korean.
The alphabet is particularly easy to pick up because there's so much double signage in Korea, and when Koreans import something from the US, they usually keep the same pronunciation. Coffee on a Korean menu is pronounced coffee and spelled that way in Hangul, and American movie titles are spelled in Hangul as they are pronounced in English.
Survival pronunciation
Here are some common pronunciation differences between Korean and English.
"F" and "P" become a "P" in Korean. Coffee and Copee would be the same.
"L" and "R" are interchangeable in Korean
"K" and "G" are interchangeable -- Kalbi and Galbi.
"D" and "T" are interchangeable Dong Suwon and Tong Suwon would be the same.
"V" becomes "B" in Korean
Korean ends very few words with consonants. Most Korean interpretations of American words will add some vowel sounds such as "uh" or "e". "Bus" becomes "busa"
Drinking the water
The Korean government has declared that tap water is safe to drink. However this is a new innovation to Korea, and Koreans traditionally boil tap water before drinking it.
Weak barley tea is commonly served at restaurants. It's served either warm or cold, and looks like brown water. This is a traditional indicator that the water's been boiled.
Bottled water is a new innovation. Potable water traditionally comes from the springs scattered around Korea. Koreans lined up at springs with water jugs is a common sight.
Eating the food
Korea offers a wide variety of foods, but remembering the names can be a problem. It's helpful to get a book about Korean foods, and many restaurants have pictures in the windows.
Here are some basics:
Gochujang is common pepper sauce put in about half of all Korean dishes. If you don't want it on a dish say, "Gochujang shiri eye oh" (I don't like gochujang).
"Bop" or "pop" is rice, so some common rice dishes are:
Bee peem bop -- a bowl of rice and vegetables with an egg on top (and gochujang)
Kim pop -- a Korean sushi, rice rolled in seaweed
Bo kum bop -- Fried rice in a Chinese restaurant
Galbi or Kalbi is beef short ribs--a fancy dish, and a specialty of the Suwon area. Deji Kalbi is pork ribs. Tang is broth. Galbi tang is a thin beef soup.
Man Du is dumplings filled with pork. They're served fried or steamed.
Kimshi is pickled cabbage and gochujang. It's Korea's sauerkraut, and the national dish. There are several varieties. Chegay is thick soup. Kimchee chegay is Kimshee soup.
Dealing with macho Koreans
The Koreans are mostly polite, but there are exceptions, especially after 10PM. Getting groped in a crowded situation such as the subway or waiting in a taxi line happens. Koreans in general are not proud of this behavior, so if you reveal that it's happening, it should stop.
Riots and demonstrations
Korea has a history of violent confrontation between the people and the government dating back to the Japanese occupation in starting in 1900. In the sixties the government was overthrown during a series of violent demonstrations.
So demonstrations are taken seriously in Korea, and Koreans are still beginners at the art of peaceful demonstration. Most demonstrations will be accompanied by large numbers of "combat police" (riot police). For teachers the usual first sign that a demonstration is in progress is spotting large numbers of riot police at strategic points in Suwon, such as Namoon.
First and second year college students form the main ranks of demonstrators. During vacations they will demonstrate for what they think are important current issues in Korea. Some of these demonstrations will contain an anti-US tone, and US service people around Young San in Seoul are cautioned to avoid becoming targets for demonstrators, but the demonstrators rarely bother civilians in Suwon.
Changing Money
You can change money at banks or hotels. The banks will want to see your passport and have you fill out some paperwork. The Dong Suwon hotel procedure is a bit simpler, and the exchange is open longer hours.
Living in Korea is an exercise in establishing basic communication. If you don't know Korean, you're a functional illiterate, but you can still get by. You can learn to do many things by rote, such as getting money out of the ATM. But when it's time to do something new, it's nice to have some one to call on. Here are some resources at your disposal.
JAFLI staff
The JAFLI staff can help you with day-to-day living matters such as getting from place to place, paying utilities, and dealing with your landlord.
Students
Your students can help you with all sorts of things. Your students are a good source for handling unusual and first time problems. Many will enjoy the novelty of helping a foreigner accomplish something in Korea.
Teachers
Other teachers, JAFLI teachers and other hogwan teachers, have faced many of the same problems you are facing. Don't be shy about asking around, especially for things such as good places to eat.
Director Kim
If you've got a work-related problem, make sure Director Kim hears about it while it's still a mole hill. It may take time to sink in what the problem is, but he's the ultimate solution to work-related problems.
Kyonggido Foreigners office
This is a new department opened in 1995 by Kyonggi province to help foreign workers. They have a handbook filled with advice, and they can be reached by phone. 253-4745, fax 253-7405
USO, Young san, Seoul
The USO in Young san is an island of Americana. There's an American cafeteria, and some pool tables and such. It arranges tours overseas and locally to places such as Chedjudo and Panmunjom. There's a hiking club, AA meetings, and American periodicals. The USO is also a place to reach Focus, a group that provides counciling of all sorts to expatriates.
US Embassy, Seoul
The US Embassy has several useful facilities. This is where you can:
There are also information and cultural activities available at the embassy.
A year's stay in Korea will open your mind. This is an opportunity to see a different way of dealing with the world.
This is a chance to pay off student loans. This is a chance to expand your teaching experience. And this is a chance to see business in action from the far side of the Pacific Rim.
Every teacher comes to Korea with different expectations, and every teacher leaves with a vivid experience that's quite different from what was expected. Welcome to Korea, and welcome to a wonderful way to see a completely different part of the world.